Drilling through a goldo (bigsby style) trem bracket

Teyeplayer Frets: 3568
30 Nov, 2024
So how easy is it to drill through a Trem bracket? I am not hugely technical, but do own a Dremel, a drill and the basics. Got a Goldo G7 I want to pop on my Verythin, but man the verythin is literally very thin. 


I figure I need to drill half way through the bracket around here:  
what do we think?

Comments
ICBM Frets: 75721
30 Nov, 2024
The normal solution to that problem is to raise the bracket high enough that the bottom lip of it is level with the back edge of the guitar, leaving a gap under the flat part of the tailpiece - this can also often give a better contact between the front part of the tailpiece and the guitar top, especially if it's one with a roller tension bar. (B7 type rather than B3.)

That should then put the existing hole high enough that it's not in the binding and safe to drill into the guitar body there.

I must say I'm not a big fan of it only having one screw though, I'd probably want two more at the sides level with the 'Duesenberg' script. If you're going to drill it, a normal HSS twist drill should be fine - but I would drill a very small pilot hole first, open the surface out with a hand countersink, then drill the full-size hole - there's a risk of the plating flaking otherwise.
Teyeplayer Frets: 3568
30 Nov, 2024
ICBM said:
The normal solution to that problem is to raise the bracket high enough that the bottom lip of it is level with the back edge of the guitar, leaving a gap under the flat part of the tailpiece - this can also often give a better contact between the front part of the tailpiece and the guitar top, especially if it's one with a roller tension bar. (B7 type rather than B3.)

That should then put the existing hole high enough that it's not in the binding and safe to drill into the guitar body there.

I must say I'm not a big fan of it only having one screw though, I'd probably want two more at the sides level with the 'Duesenberg' script. If you're going to drill it, a normal HSS twist drill should be fine - but I would drill a very small pilot hole first, open the surface out with a hand countersink, then drill the full-size hole - there's a risk of the plating flaking otherwise.
Super, thanks ICBM. That all sounds within my limited comfort zone. :+1: 
ICBM Frets: 75721
01 Dec, 2024
I forgot to say - if it is a B7 type (ie has two screws into the top at the front) I would probably just try it with only the single strap button screw first, and see how robust it feels. If it’s fine, don’t worry about the other screw holes. I would also make sure the strap button screw is larger and longer than the one normally fitted to strap buttons - the largest size that will go through the button and about 40mm long is what I would look for.